Information and Improvement For Your Home

Do-it-Yourself: Home Improvement Projects

Home transformation projects crapper be onerous on the pockets. As such as we poverty to provide the projects to proficient contractors who crapper hit superior results, sometimes, it’s meet more applicatory to hit a lowercase training and do these projects without the support of contractors. People take into their fund or use to assorted loans meet to direction these projects and this in invoke makes them retrograde their business momentum.

This article tries to provide whatever do-it-yourself bag transformation projects so as to provide the readers whatever ideas on how to revilement backwards on expenses and generates fund from the project.

1) Painting

Giving a concern a newborn colouration module definitely provide it a newborn and underclassman ambience. If a kinsfolk is bushed and tired with the underway colours of their house, they crapper do the craft themselves. Painting the concern unitedly is a enthusiastic artefact to stick and hit recreation patch rising the bag at the aforementioned time.

Many grouping who endeavor to makeup their houses hit problems which are attendant to the incorrect activity of craft materials. You staleness advert that affordable makeup is not the artefact to go when craft the house. If you use to using these paints, you module feel it whatever instance in the nearby future.

2) Kitchen

There crapper be a aggregation of structure to meliorate your kitchen, which crapper be argued as digit of the most essential places in the house. Installing instrumentation tiles on the countertop or the story is digit of them. There are a aggregation of inventiveness materials that are discover there, especially on the cyberspace that gives a step-by-step pass on how to establish these instrumentation tiles. But the most essential abstract that you hit to study is the category of countenance that you poverty with your kitchen. The activity of the colours and the sizes of the tiles is rattling important.

3. Installing wallpapers

Giving a home’s walls a newborn countenance is definitely a enthusiastic artefact to do bag improvement. There are numerous materials and a containerful of designs that you crapper opt from. Wallpapers crapper easily be obtained from bag transformation shops and stores. The assorted designs allow assistance prints which are imported, there are onerous unsmooth surround papers, there are designs which are embossed.

There you go, whatever base ideas on how to go most rising your bag without the support of contractors. It takes a aggregation of practice, instance and substance to intend your bag improved, but if finished properly, the impact and the production module provide enthusiastic satisfaction.

Bill McRea is the house of Knowninfo a payment website sacred to providing Information, Marketing Strategies and Quality eBooks. Visit our place regular for updated information, and unequalled products.

If you’ve ever longed for hardwood floors, you’re in beatific company. While fleecy wooden floors fellow backwards to the Colonial era, hardwood floors prototypal separate on the environs in the New 17th century. If you exclusive undergo that you poverty hardwood floors gracing your home, feature this hurried and filthy pass so that your nous won’t aerobatics when you speech with your contractor. This ten-minute feature module pass you finished the principle of vegetation species, grades, types and styles.

Wood Species

With over 50 vegetation species acquirable for vegetation flooring, flushed tree accounts for more than 50% of hornlike vegetation level sales. Its popularity stems from its elegance, permanence and cost-effectiveness. Maple ranks ordinal in popularity for newborn vegetation flooring. Newer trends inform a ontogeny craving for bamboo, cherry, and albescent oak. Some of the more recondite imported woods utilised in hardwood floors allow Brazilian cherry, inhabitant cypress, individual padauk, and Asiatic teak.

Color options are plentiful. If colouration is a priority, and you poverty the uncolored example of the vegetation to happen through, superior a vegetation species that most intimately matches your colouration preference.

Wood Grades

Grade refers exclusive to the example of the wood, not to its permanence or serviceability. Not every evaluate applies to every vegetation species. A vegetation species is hierarchal as Clear, Select or Common, or it is hierarchal as First, Second or Third. Clear/First, Select/Second, Common/Third grades are not identical, but they are near sufficiency to inform a mutual consumer definition. The sextet humble vegetation grades include:

-Clear or First - liberated from most circumpolar defects and discoloration, contains exclusive secondary circumpolar imperfections

-Select or Second - haw allow offense imperfections, much as colouration variations

-Common or Third - contains knots and colouration variations, ofttimes categorised as “rustic” wood

Solid vs. Engineered Wood

Many grouping conceive that hardwood and solidified vegetation are synonymous. They’re not. If you’re chance the constituent engineered vegetation for the prototypal time, you most probable conceive that it is someways humble to solidified wood. That’s not needs true.

Solid vegetation is processed from digit solidified

Ceramic tile is revered for its beauty, strength, and its durability. It is easy to maintain and looks gorgeous. It can compliment any style of home d

TAPS:

There are four main finishes for taps and showers:

Chrome, the hardest wearing finish, usually last over 20 years.

Antique Gold, used more on traditional style suites, is generally a soft finish which will last approximately 3 years with day to day use but in a rarely used second bathroom could last as long as 10 years.

Nickel (either brushed or polished) is the softest finish and would normally be for decorative house bathrooms that are rarely used.

Powder coated, not as common in taps but still used on showers, is where the product is coated with a layer of coloured plastic.
There are many types of tap configuration for baths, basins and bidets. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. This next section outlines the different types of tap arrangements that are generally available.

Bath Taps:

There are several types of tap arrangement you can put on a bath. They are as follows: A pair of taps, a bath filler deck mounted, a bath filler pillar mounted, a three-hole bath filler,
a deck mounted bath shower mixer, a pillar mounted bath shower mixer, a four-hole bath shower mixer, a five-hole bath shower mixer, wall mounted filler and an overflow filler.

Pair of bath taps:

The most common form of taps for baths, one tap for hot water and one for cold. The cold tap is normally on the right and the hot on the left.

Bath filler deck mounted and bath filler pillar mounted.

This type of tap has the hot and cold-water taps combined onto one mixer block.

The deck-mounted type is normally contemporary in style whereas the pillar-mounted type (this is where the mixer is held above the bath rim on two pillars) is normally traditional in style.
The advantage of a mixer over a pair of taps is the ability to mix the water to the desired temperature whilst the bath is filling.

Three hole bath filler:

This is where the spout is separate to the bath tap valves. In this case you have a hot and cold valve and the spout is mounted either in the centre between the two valves or mounted in the corner.

Bath shower mixers:

This is the same as the bath fillers but has a shower hose and handset attached. These types of taps are not designed to be used as showers for standing under and washing your whole body.
The reason for this is that there is the real risk that is another person in the house switches on a tap or a washing machine kicks in then the temperature on the shower will change radically.
These types of showers are designed for washing hair or rinsing the bath.

Four and five-hole bath shower mixers:

These are the same as the three hole mixers but the four-hole mixers have a handset that sits on the bath with the hose under the bath rim. The shower is switched on by means of a diverter button mounted on the bath spout.
The five hole mixer works in the same way but has a separate diverter mounted on the bath, not on the bath spout.

Wall mounted filler:

More popular on the continent, this is where the mixer is mounted on the wall above the bath and not on the bath rim.

Overflow bath filler:

This is similar to the three-hole bath filler but whereas the three hole has a spout the overflow filler has the hot and cold valves on the rim of the bath and the filler is the overflow fitting which also doubles up as the pop up waste.

Basin Taps:

As with baths there are several types of tap arrangement that can be fitted to a basin. These are a pair of taps, a mono-bloc mixer and a three tap-hole mixer.

A pair of taps:

This is where you have a separate hot and cold tap on the basin with the cold tap usually on the right and the hot on the left. This is the most common configuration for taps on a basin.
This type of basin normally has a plug and chain waste.

Basin mono-bloc mixer:

This is where the hot and cold taps are mounted on a single tap bloc in the centre of the basin. This type of tap normally has a pop-up waste supplied as part of the tap.

Three tap-hole mixer:

As with the bath arrangement you have a spout in the middle and a separate hot and cold valve on either side. This type of arrangement has a pop up waste.
On a three tap-hole basin you can also fit a pair of basin taps and in the central hole fit a chain stay basin waste - this is where the plug chain is attached to a disc which fits over the middle hole.

SHOWERS:

There are several types of showers available in the UK and the type you choose has a lot to do with the type of hot water and cold water supply that the client has in their house. So I will first tackle the types of domestic water systems most commonly available.

Gravity Feed, Vented, or Low Pressure systems

This type of water system usually has a direct mains water cold feed. The hot water is provided by means of a hot water cylinder (copper) sited in an airing cupboard and a cold water cistern (tank) sited either above the cylinder or in the loft. To use a mixer shower with this type of system the cold water tank needs to be sited at least three feet (0.1 bar) above the shower head/handset. That is unless you use a pump, in which case you need the tank to be one foot (0.03bar) above the shower head/handset.

Combi-boiler, Multi-point systems

This type of water system has a mains feed cold water supply. The hot water is provided by an instantaneous gas boiler. The boiler either does both the hot water and central heating ( combi-boiler), or it does just the hot water only (multi-point). With this type of system the cold water is supplied at full mains pressure seventy five feet (2.5bar approximately) whilst the hot water is governed down by the boiler to a minimum of forty five feet (1.5bar approximately). With this type of system you cannot use a pump to power the shower as this would contravene the water by-laws. However as the hot and cold water is supplied under pressure you have a power shower anyway.

Pressurised water system, unvented

This type of water system has a mains cold water supply. The hot water supply is from a hot water cylinder which is supplied by full mains pressure of 175 feet (2.5bar approximately). As with the combi-boiler system you cannot use pump but you do not need to as the mains water pressure makes this a power shower.

SHOWER DOORS (Cubicles, enclosures and surrounds):

Shower doors and enclosures come in a variety of shapes and sizes. As with pottery the cost and quality of the units depend on the materials used in the construction and the design. Normally the thicker the glass the more expensive the shower cubicle.

Less expensive enclosures generally use glass in the thickness range of 3mm to 5mm. This thickness of glass will always have a metal framework surrounding it to support the weight of the glass. The mid to upper market enclosures have glass in the thickness range of 6mm to 8mm.
This type of cubicle generally has very little framework surrounding it or even none at all. The build quality of ancillary parts such as hinges and seals is also important, as these are the parts that wear the fastest with day to day use and will result in leaks.

With sliding doors the rollers for the doors should be of ball bearing types. The reason for this is that with a ball bearing roller there is little or no wear on the wheels. This means that with constant use they do not become elliptical and the glide of the door is always smooth.
The thickness of the frame and the wall profiles is also a contributing factor to the price. As a rule the thicker the frame and the profiles the more the cost. The profiles are the U-shaped channels that attach the cubicle to the wall.

Types of shower door:

There are seven main types of shower door: Pivot, Hinged, Saloon, Bi-fold, In-fold, Double slider and Triple slider.

The Pivot and Hinged doors:

These work in the same way, in that they open outwards as a single piece of glass. With the pivot door the hinges are at the top and bottom of the door.
The advantage of this is that it makes the door well balanced and put very little strain on the framework. The hinged door has the hinges on the side of the door.
This does mean however that when the door is open, the opening on the hinged door is wider than that of the pivot door. These types of door tend to be less expensive than any other due to the simple design.
There can be a difficulty with the water running off the door onto the floor when the door is opened after a shower.

The Saloon door:

This is less common and has two hinged doors which join in the middle. They tend to open inwards but are not as a rule very popular.

Bi-fold and In-fold doors:

These two doors both open inwards and so overcome the difficulty of water getting onto the floor by dripping water off the door. The bi-fold door is hinged in the centre and as the name suggests folds exactly in the middle.
The in-fold door swings in as a single door by means of a canter lever arrangement at the top and bottom of the door. You should be aware that if a person faints or collapses in this type of cubicle it is not possible to open the door.

Double and Triple sliding doors:

These doors work in the same way in that the doors slide on rollers back and forth to open or close. The difference between the two is the number of doors used to gain access. The double sliding door has less framework and as such has a more minimalist appearance, whereas the triple sliding door creates a wider opening when the doors are pulled back.

Shower shapes:

There are a myriad number or shower door shapes. The most common are the square, rectangle, pentangle (penta- or five-sided) and the quadrant (quad of quarter round). The most common type of shower tray size is 760mm x 760mm. This is not the smallest square tray size but is the smallest that is still usable by most people to shower.
You are able to obtain square trays of both 700mm x 700mm and 600mm x 600mm. The 600mm tray size is normally used on caravans and boats. The best square tray size if it can be fitted is the 900mm x 900mm.
Rectangular shower trays come in a variety of sizes from 700mm x 800mm to 1700mm x750mm. The most common size is 1200mm x 760mm, whereas the optimum size is 1200mm x 900mm. Tray sizes larger than this normally incorporate the ability to dry oneself in the cubicle.
A pentangle cubicle is the same as a square one but has the comer cut off. This results in the saving of floor space in the bathroom ensuite. A quadrant cubicle has a rounded front edge designed to save space as with the pentangle.

SHOWER TRAYS:

There are four main types of material used to make shower trays. These are steel, acrylic, stone resin and acrylic capped resin.

Shower shapes:

Steel is less common in domestic use and is generally used in commercial applications such as retirement homes and hotels

Acrylic trays used to be very common but received a bad reputation due to the poor build quality of trays in the past. The use of poor frameworks and minimal reinforcement meant that the trays moved when in use and often leaked. Modern acrylic trays are generally built to a very high standard and are fully reinforced. All acrylic trays are on adjustable legs and so are ideal in applications where a solid floor such a concrete is on site. The result of this higher built quality is that acrylic trays are not an inexpensive option.

Stone resin trays are by far the most common trays available. The low cost of producing the moulds for the trays makes then the most versatile in size. They are available in both legged and un-legged format (the most common being without legs). The two most common problems with resin trays relate to the quality of installation. The first is that if the un-legged tray is not bedded in properly it can cause the base of the tray to crack when in use. The second is that the colour of the tray is applied as a thin spray finish. The result of this is that if you scratch the tray when installing it, it is extremely difficult to repair.

Acrylic capped resin trays are becoming more popular. They combine the rigidity of the stone resin tray, but have the added advantage of being capped in acrylic. This produces a surface which is more resistant to impact and can be polished if scratched. They are however more costly to produce and as such are not available in the same number of sizes as the stone resin.

SHOWER TYPES:

There are four main types of shower, electric, manual mixer, thermostatic mixer and pumped which can be either thermostatic or manual.

Electric:

This type of shower has a small kettle type chamber within it through which the cold water passes and is heated electrically. The amount of water that can be heated is limited to approximately one and a half gallons a minute, although the spray is forced out of the head at approximately 1.5 bar (45 feet head).

In order to achieve an all over spray from the shower handset the holes in the end of the handset are drilled quite small. The result of this is that the droplets of water spray produced are small and do not hold the temperature. This means that whilst the water temperature on your head is hot by the time the water runs to your knees it has gone cold. One other difficulty with the small hole size is that the handsets are prone to scale build up in hard water areas which results in the spray pattern diminishing.

In order to maximize the amount of water produced modern electric showers use on average 8.5KW to 9KW of power. This makes them three times more costly to use than the electric immersion heater in the cylinder. My own opinion is that they are best used in applications where there is no stored hot water or where a combi-boiler is used for the first shower mixer and the client needs a second shower in the house. Most electric showers are manual mixers and have a tendency to vary the water temperature when other appliances such as taps and toilets are used.

Manual Mixers:

A manual mixer uses the hot and cold water supply to achieve a shower. This is done by blending the amount of hot and cold by means of a lever valve, which either uses an internal ceramic mixer cartridge or uses two separate controls to achieve the desired temperature by turning simultaneously. This simple mechanism makes the manual valve very cost effective. However this type of mixer is prone to wild variations in temperature when other appliances such as taps, washing machines, dish washers and toilets are used. Not a type of mixer to be recommended for families with small children or older people.

Thermostatic Mixers:

A thermostatic mixer works in a similar way to the manual mixer but has an extra device fitted inside the valve casing which regulates the water temperature to within plus or minus one degree centigrade. The result of this is that if another appliance is turned on the thermostat automatically adjusts the flow of water to maintain the desired temperature. If it is unable to maintain that temperature then it will temporarily turn the shower off until it is safe to allow it to function.
This type of mixer is ideal for families with small children and older people.

Pumped Showers:

This is where an electric pump is fitted to the shower to increase the water pressure. This type of system can only be fitted to a gravity feed hot water system. There are two types of pumps generally used:

1. Inlet Pump (Twin Impellor)

This type of pump is by far the most common is fitted to the hot and cold water supplies before they go through the shower valve. Relatively inexpensive to purchase they provide pressure to the shower of up to 3bar (100ft head) at a flow rate of up to 3 gallons a minute. The most popular pressure is 1.5bar (45 foot head).

2. Outlet Pump (Single Impellor)

This type of pump is fitted after the valve and pumps the mixed hot and cold water. The advantage of this is that it can safely deliver a higher flow rate and higher pressure. The reason for this is that when you pump water into the valve at pressure it can create an imbalance of pressures at the valve. This is due to the fact that the valve requires more hot water than cold to achieve the correct temperature. The Outlet pump pulls the water through the valve and sets up no such imbalance.

TYPES OF MIXER VALVES:

There are three main types of mixer valve:
1. Fully exposed, where both the body of the valve and the hot and cold water pipes to it are on the surface and on full view.

2. Semi-recessed, where the body of the valve is on the surface and exposed and the pipe work is hidden in the wall.

3. Fully Recessed, where both the main body of the valve and the pipe work are concealed in the wall.

TYPES OF SHOWER HEADS:

There are three types of shower head:

1. Fixed head, where the shower head is fixed on the wall above head height by means of a shower arm. This type of head cannot normally be moved lower, but may be fitted with a ball swivel that allows you to turn it to the left or right.

2. Handset, normally supplied with a shower rail (sliding rail) which allows you to adjust the height of the shower rose and remove it if necessary to wash a child or wall.

3. Body-jet, normally fitted with the fixed head type of shower these are jets mounted on the wall below head height. They are ideal for people who do not wish to wash there hair or face.

SHOWER SPRAYS:

There are three main types of shower spray:

1. Standard spray common to all types of shower the water is supplied via series of small holes distributed evenly across the shower head.

2. Pulse spray (massage spray) this can only be used on showers which have power as the water pressure is used to spin a disc located within the shower head to pulse the water spray and so produce a massage action. The greater the pressure the stronger the massage.

3. Champagne spray (aerated) can only be used on power showers with a minimum of 1.5bar (45 feet head). The water pressure is used to produce air bubbles in the water and so produce a soft foamy spray. This spray pattern is ideal for children as it introduces them to power showers in a way that is fun. Also ideal for ladies as the foam prevents the water from splashing up into the face and also expresses more water into wet hair for the removal of shampoo.

Written by Neal Baker on behalf of http://www.bathroomsensuite.com and
http://www.bathroom-furnitureuk.co.uk,
online retailers of bathroom furniture, bathroom suites and bathroom accessories in the UK.

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Transforming existing raw space into an extra bedroom, a playroom, or a guest or master suite is an affordable way to make your house bigger. You can also winterize an unheated sunroom or porch to transform a two- or three-season room into a year-round retreat. You can transform a two-bedroom, two-bath house into a “new” three-bedroom, three-bathroom house just by making your unused space livable!

Be Your Own Project Manager
Finishing the existing raw space in your home for livability requires the help of specialists in several trades: plumbing, carpentry, electrical, and others, including flooring and possibly stoneworking for tile work. So while it’s not a do-it-yourself job, you can manage the project yourself and become your own general contractor. That way, you’ll save money and choose and work with the tradespeople whom you really like. Managing the project gives you tremendous control over personnel, quality control, and finishes. You’re the boss! Here are the basic steps you’ll want to follow:

Set aside some time
Expect to spend from 1 to several hours a day for several months dealing with some aspect of the renovation. Managing the transformation of any space in your home does not require you to be on-site every minute, but you do have to check in often, inspect the work as it progresses, pay bills, consult with the tradespeople who are on the site, coordinate with and schedule the tradespeople who need to come in, make sure the site is organized safely and in a way that protects workers (and therefore your liability), monitor rubbish removal, and troubleshoot.

Determine your budget

Every decision you make flows from your budget, from how much to spend on flooring to how fancy you want your bathroom fixtures to be.

Decide how you want to use the space

Will it be an extra bedroom and bath, a family room, or a children’s playroom? The function will help inform many of the finishes you choose. For example, a children’s playroom may benefit from a hardwood floor partially covered by a large rug. How elaborate do you want the bathroom to be? If you are transforming a space into a master suite, the bathroom should have double vanities and a glass enclosure for the shower, which should have extra wall and overhead showerheads.

Gather the right professionals
Several professionals are involved in an addition project. They include:

Architect

Carpenter and/or drywall contractor

Flooring contractor

Licensed electrician

HVAC specialist

Licensed plumber

Window supplier/installer

As project manager, you coordinate the work, schedule, and budget. Jobs need to be completed in a particular order. Follow this general timeline:

Prepare the floor
Check the condition of the existing subfloor and floor joists. If you are finishing a basement, you must inspect the condition of its floor. Most basements have poured concrete floors, and sometimes they slope steeply for drainage purposes. If that’s the case, the floor must be leveled before proceeding with the work. A handyperson or contractor should pour a thin concrete overlay to level it. Be sure that access to any existing floor drains is maintained! Drains need to stay functional in case of basement flooding. Check with a plumber to find out if you will be required to periodically pour water in them to prevent sewer gas from building up.

Install any necessary HVAC systems
Ductwork is cumbersome. In basements, where ceiling height is always a consideration, soffits may be required to cover up any vents running overhead, which can lower the ceiling. Basements are usually cool and may not require air-conditioning systems. They do require heating, however. Be sure the HVAC specialist locates supply ducts near outside walls. Install return air ducts on interior walls or ceilings away from the supply ducts. The idea is to “draw” air across the room. Particular attention must be paid to ventilating, heating, and cooling attic rooms.

Install plumbing
You can solve plumbing issues in other parts of your house at this time, too, if necessary. If the existing drain stacks in the house are made from PVC, they need to be wrapped with insulation to minimize sound transmission. Cold-water lines may need to be insulated if you have had problems in the past with condensation, because it may drip onto your new ceiling. Have the plumber rough in bathroom plumbing so he or she can come back later to install the fixtures. Rough plumbing is all the plumbing components that need to be installed before the finish tradespeople (drywall contractor, painter, and so on) come in to do their jobs, including the waste and supply water lines that are in the walls or framing of the building. Ask the plumber to use

Want to improve the look of your property? Want to add value to your property?

The extension plans are ready but the finances are not.

Rather than waiting another year why not consider a Home Improvement Loan.

Make the dream become reality with a UK Home Improvement Loan.

Are you planning an extension to your home, a new kitchen, would you like to have double glazing, a new conservatory, patio, or a new heating system, or are you undertaking the general up keep of your home but finding it hard to pay for?

A Home improvement Loan could be the easiest and cheapest way to make improvements to your home.

A UK Home Improvement Loan is a low cost, low rate, cheap, low interest loan secured on your UK property. As the home owner, it frees you up to do whatever improvements you want on your property.

With a UK Home Improvement Loan you can borrow from

Before getting your house valuated think about the list below and if you should implement them to increase your house’s value.

Clean up your house:
Clean your house thoroughly. By this I mean do everything humanly possible to cleanse your house. Clean the windows, the sink, vacuum the floor, scrub the toilet, take out the trash, make sure nothing appears to be in a sloppy mess.

Fix what can be seen before what can’t:
Quite a few people believe that its important to work on the things you can see before the things you can’t, this attracts more buyers. For example renovate the exterior before the interior before the creaky floor boards. If the house looks like a dump from the outside most people will not be willing to have a look around inside.

Seal the driveway:
Do you have a gravel driveway? Do weeds pop up, do you find yourself constantly raking gravel, do find that gravel manages to get into your house, do you get irritated by the loud noise of a car that’s driving on it makes? It may be time to end these problems and increase your houses value by sealing your driveway.

Is the property secure?
People will tend to pay more for a house they feel safe in, so consider;

- Installing a burglar alarm

- Installing a fire alarm

- Installing security doors

- Installing secure and reliable locks

Do you need new spouting?
Spouting will be one of the first things an appraiser or buyer will notice when they look at your house. You do not want them to see rusted, dirty, broken spouting. Putting in new spouting will increase the value of your house and decrease the maintenance required.

Are your windows up to scratch?
Windows are a powerful tool in your home improvement arsenal. If your windows are not aesthetically appealing or are in an awful state consider double-glazed windows, although possibly a bit expensive, are a good improvement. They will provide your house with superior heat insulation and sound insulation. If a room isn’t getting much light, consider enlarging the windows or putting in new ones. This will make the room a lot warmer and, “light and bright” which appraisers and buyer love.

Does the house need a power wash?
Unless you regularly clean your house with a scrubbing brush it will probably be a good idea to get your house power washed. Being inexpensive, this will help get rid of the grime, dirt, and any other disgusting build up on your house.

Temperature:
Curtains and windows will help with insulation but to really insulate your property you need to have a good insulator between walls such as fibreglass or foam. People will happily pay much more to be warm throughout the winter than spend the extra money on heating, so by doing this the value of your house can increase substantially.

If excess heat is an issue then consider installing an air conditioner. Again, people will always pay extra to feel comfortable.

Roofing:
Going back to the idea of “fix what can be seen before what can’t”, a roof improvement can be very beneficial to the value of your house. Firstly the roof needs to be cleaned, preferably power washed. If the roof is in that bad of a shape maybe a re-tiling is in order.

Things to think about before an open day.

-Make sure you have a plan and know what your doing on the day. Assign jobs to all family members or flat mates to get things done quicker in case there is a showing scheduled with short notice.

-Make sure everything smells nice and fresh, if you smoke do not smoke in your house for a few days before the auction. Open all the windows, use an air fresher if you have to.

-Get rid of all your pets for the day. They can be a nuisance especially if they are over friendly and may cause some allergic reactions.

-Your house should have a light and sunny atmosphere. Pull back all the curtains and blinds, turn lights if its dark or rainy.

-If you have the luxury of controlling the temperature of your house make sure the temperature is comfortable for all your guest.

-Clean your house thoroughly. By this I mean do everything humanly possible to cleanse your house. Clean the windows, the sink, vacuum the floor, scrub the toilet, take out the trash, make sure nothing appears to be in a sloppy mess.

-Leave the open home unless your do not have a real estate agent there. If you have to stay, don’t let the buyers know your the seller and don’t approach or smother them unless they come to you. Try to stay out of their way.

This article is owned by http://www.use-your-equity.com and written by John Whiteside. Learn more about real estate investing, and how to create and use the equity in your home! The original article can be found at http://www.use-your-equity.com/General.html

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